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Sign Guy
Forum Hermit
Joined: 11/22/2004
Canada
176 Posts |
 Posted - 01/29/2010 : 12:20:01
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A while ago on this site there was discussion about the recent changes to motor oil. Now that some time has gone by, are there any new issues? I've heard that all motorcycle and/or diesel oils still have the wear-additives needed to protect metal to metal contact (like flat tappet cams, etc).
Can anyone advise what markings I should be looking for on the side of the oil container? Are all royal purple o.k.? Maybe a list of other performance type oils to use.
?????
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Edited by - Sign Guy on 01/29/2010 12:20:50 |
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markw
Needs a Life!!!
Joined: 02/04/2003
USA
946 Posts |
Posted - 01/29/2010 : 13:14:24
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| We have started using Brad Penn "break-in" oil that we can buy locally. After break-in we are still using Redline. One of my other toys is a VW Vanagon with a modern TDI conversion. The newer VW/Audi engines have specific requirements. Most of the oils on the recommended list are not even sold in this country. The closest is 0-40 Mobile 1 for European cars. If you PM me your email, I can send you the list. These specific requirements are a result of what you are asking about. mark |
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carshouston
Still Learning to Type
Joined: 06/23/2003
USA
30 Posts |
Posted - 01/30/2010 : 15:50:47
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Yes, Royal Purple is ok, they didn't change anything. If you have any questions about Royal Purple email David Canitz(he runs a GT3 Mazda) at dcanitz AT royalpurple DOT com
It's all we use on our cars
George |
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Jesse Prather
Ready to Write a Book
Joined: 03/02/2005
62 Posts |
Posted - 01/30/2010 : 17:44:05
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| The real issue is with solid lifter engines. The ZDDP content has been reduced in passenger vehicle oil's to the point where your older pushrod engine with solid lifters will not last. I use Cam-Shield on all of these engines as an additive to bring up the ZDDP levels. Not much of an issue with an overhead cam engine but oil is a major issue with an older engine. Short story, this problem has not gone away and will not go away ever I suppose. |
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rikgray
Ready to Write a Book
Joined: 10/22/2004
91 Posts |
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Jesse Prather
Ready to Write a Book
Joined: 03/02/2005
62 Posts |
Posted - 01/31/2010 : 10:15:52
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| I've used diesel oil for break in but they don't have the additives for high performance engines. Use a good racing oil and an additive if you're using a solid lifter engine. |
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jimmy
Forum Hermit
Joined: 02/05/2003
135 Posts |
Posted - 01/31/2010 : 11:09:35
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All street oils now have greatly reduced ZDDP (anti-wear additive) and greatly increased detergents (increase wear). Race oils, diesel and motorcycle oils have more ZDDP than street oils; however, diesel oil has more detergent than other oils.
Red Line recommends using Red Line race oil with Red Line Break-in additive (high dose of ZDDP with little detergent) for initial break-in. The break-in additive can also be used after break-in if there is a concern about highly stressed parts such as flat tappet lifters. The break-in additive is a good addition to street oils if you want to replace the ZDDP.
Jimmy |
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Daigo
Needs a Life!!!
Joined: 08/21/2003
201 Posts |
Posted - 01/31/2010 : 11:54:13
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| One of the biggest down falls of commodity consumer based oil as opposed to racing oil is the detergents and additives that are part of their formula. Foaming is a big problem with these oils. I saw a demo with two bowls, one with conventional oil and the other was Joe Gibbs I believe. They took an old fashioned electric mixer to both. The consumer oil had turned into a froth with the race oil did not. |
The Spartans do not ask the number of the enemy, only where they are........Agix of Sparta |
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Sign Guy
Forum Hermit
Joined: 11/22/2004
Canada
176 Posts |
Posted - 02/01/2010 : 14:29:18
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Thanks for the info. I have one of the 'flat-tappet', high wear rate motors from a bygone era (almost, but not yet!) and am stepping it up this year to dry-sump, high revs. Just want to use the best I can for as long as I can, don't want failure because I used the wrong oil.
One last question - oil temp. Any reccomedations here as well??
Mark, I tried to PM you from this site but get a time out error.
Maybe you can email me to Lorne 'dot' stead "at" bc ferries "dot" com |
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johnneilson
Novice permit
Joined: 03/22/2005
8 Posts |
Posted - 02/01/2010 : 14:48:13
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Be aware of the changes to the Diesel oil now.
Since the '07 reduction of sulfer, the oils have also had a reduction in the amount of "high pressure lubricant".
Check the latest version of Shell Rotilla oil, it has the yellow banner on the bottles to indicate "07 compliance".
It is still better than the conventional motor oils intended for passenger cars, but it is not the same as once was.
Use a Racing oil instead. Also, be very carefull about filters used.
Use something like Wix or NAPA.
John
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RacerKen45
Novice Typer
Joined: 04/11/2008
14 Posts |
Posted - 02/01/2010 : 20:39:52
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| The reason for the removal of certain oil additives is that it was found that they were reducing the effectiveness of catalytic converters. As the emission standards have gotten tougher and tougher, the vehicle manufacturers worked with the oil industry to make these changes. In order to serve the performance and classic car market, the oil companies now have added race oils that say "Not Street Legal" which include the additives. One might ask why they couldn't just use these oils for their street car and/or tow vehicle. Well, if you live in a state with vehicle inspection laws, this could result in having to replace a very expensive catalytic converter just to register your vehicle. |
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Buford
Novice Typer
Joined: 06/29/2008
USA
19 Posts |
Posted - 02/09/2010 : 10:43:30
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Redline. Been using it since 1979. first in my FF, then in most everything else, except the Ford 8n tractor. Will use it again in the Honda GT, when it's done.
FYI: I use it in my tow vehicle, Toyota Tundra....It helps with that "sudden Acceleration" by making it more sudden. Had it out today in the snow storm practicing that Sudden Acceleration with the traction control stuff disabled.
Also in 2007 when I bought it I noticed my accelerator pedal sticking when depressing it making it hard to drive smoothly. I lubricated it! and the problem went away.....Redline. ReCall? ReCall? Don't need no stinking ReCall. |
Buford Out |
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zracer
Still Learning to Type
Joined: 01/01/2009
33 Posts |
Posted - 02/09/2010 : 15:33:41
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| the only oils to use are.....BRAD PENN GRADE ONE (Old Kendall GT-1)"the green oil",pure Pa. oil..which is the best..PERIOD..if you know you oils you know that's correct..it is in a class of it's own...and you are right about diesel oils...aka..Rotella etc,etc, it's no different then other consumer or off the public shelve type oils...since low sulfur diesel fuel was introducted...just like when you fill your diesel p/u,toter/tdi that pre-2000,you should be adding a fuel(lubricant)additive to you tank..,to make up for the lack of sulfur (which is a lubricant in diesel fuel) in todays diesel...ask any serious engine builder and they will agree on BRAD PENN GRADE ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Jesse Prather
Ready to Write a Book
Joined: 03/02/2005
62 Posts |
Posted - 03/15/2010 : 18:05:27
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| The brad penn is a great oil especially if you're looking for the right amount of ZDDP. |
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Motor oils revisited
